On at least some news, the code is stamped on the underside of the fork bike chainring, and it is visible when installed. The first news represents the year and the second is the month, where A is January and L is December. Here are some readers regarding Shimano codes provided by Tom Marshall: You should be able to see it by peeling back the hood from the handlebar end. On some classics there may also be another date code on back of lever’s tip. A hub I have has a Y which I assume is , which matches my estimated age for the hubs. Ben Weiner pointed out a very useful site concerning Shimano codes.
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Great website for lightweights. Interesting dating & i.d. for Williams Cranks / Chainrings.
Dating Williams Cranks
I just picked up a vintage Healing bike which I’m about to restore. It has the exact same oiler port and headset. The headset has damage to the knurling and there’s a few balls missing from the bearings. Would you know where to get replacement headsets like this?
I did wonder if it was a Williams but am having difficulty definitively identifying it exactly. These informative links are of use dating and identifying.
Purchased as a dazzlingly restored frameset from the same man from whom I had bought my “Typhoon” the previous year. I was fortunate to have had the same older gent do the re-enamel on this bike who had done the Typhoon. Again another flawless flamboyant finish. A single braze-on shifter boss on the down tube and no guides for a front cable, this bike was intended to use either a rod front shifter, or as I have it built up, is equally well suited running with just a 5-speed freewheel and single chainring.
To be honest, I don’t shift often enough anyway, and the old Simplex Competition lever actuated “clanger” which I had tested with the necessary close-range double chainset was simply not worth the bother Reynolds main tubes and pencil thin stays and Agrati dropouts. The lugs may be Holdsworth’s own cut pattern. Oiler fitting in bottom bracket shell, pump pegs, cable guides for rear brake and for rear derailleur.
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It is easy to confuse the date code with the alphanumeric model number. On rear derailleurs the code is stamped on the back side of the inner parallel arm. This clearly is when the component was made and not when the bike was made but unless the component or bike manufacturer had lots of stock lying around in inventory the date should be a fairly good indication of the year of the bike.
I think it odd that all three Code reports are apparently March of. In the latter part of the period the code was stamped between rivets and. In the yearolds case he was remorseful enough to drop out of college and write apologies to the victim and her family.
Contents: You are here Cottered cranks Dating Williams Cranks Shop by category. Peugeot was still using them in the 80’s which helps to explain things Find More Posts by miamijim. Raleigh went to cotterless cranks on their low-end Record in Find More Posts by bbattle. Last edited by marley mission; at Cottered cranks are beautiful. They are extremely durable. It only takes a little finesse to fit cotters.
Rarely, they can be hard to remove even with the right tool, but you can still salvage the crank arm by drilling or drifting out the cotter. You don’t have to worry about wear in the chamfers of the square drive. On the down side you’ll need a stash of English, French and Italian cotters, and the cranks are heavier.
Dating Williams Cranks
Dating vintage bicycles can be a challenge. As long as the part is original, this method can greatly reduce the amount of detective work required in dating such bicycles. This bicycle has a pre-war frame with cross-over rear stays. The paintwork is probably not original, though the repainting of the frame must have occurred quite some time ago.
With many thanks to the owner of this bicycle for help in preparing the description and providing the great photographs. This is a non-commercial site, maintained by family descendants.
Many older bicycles use wedge-shaped fasteners called “cotters” to hold the cranks onto the bottom bracket axle. These cotters have a nut to hold them in place after they have been driven or pressed in. They can be difficult to remove, especially if they have been in place for a long time. Recalcitrant crank cotters are among the most challenging bicycle repair problems.
The first thing to try, if you have one available, is a cotter pin press.
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